Frequently Asked Questions

Yes. Estimates are free. Send the form with a few details, or call (919) 290-3020. For most jobs we want to see the tree and the surrounding property in person before giving a firm price, because access and nearby structures change the work involved.

Every removal is priced individually. The biggest factors are the height and trunk diameter of the tree, its condition, how close it is to the house or other structures, how easy it is to reach with equipment, and how much cleanup and stump grinding you want. A free on-site estimate gives you a firm number.

Trimming is priced by the size of the tree, how much work it needs, how the crew can reach it and what sits underneath it. Lifting a few low limbs over a driveway is quick. Clearing a large oak away from a roof, where each limb has to be roped down, takes much longer. We give a free estimate that lists exactly which work is included.

The main factors are the diameter of the stump at ground level (including the flared roots), how easy it is to reach with a grinder, how many stumps there are and whether you want the chips hauled away. Several stumps in one visit usually cost less per stump than scheduling them separately.

Usually because the estimates do not cover the same work. One price may include full cleanup, hauling the wood and grinding the stump, while another leaves the wood in the yard and the stump in the ground. Compare what is included, not just the total, and ask how the tree will be taken down near your house.

Often, yes. Setting up equipment, traveling and hauling debris happen once instead of several times, so combining trimming, removals and stump grinding into one visit tends to cost less than spreading them across separate trips.

We can sometimes give a rough range for simple jobs, but a firm price needs an in-person look. Access, nearby structures, the condition of the wood and what lies underneath the tree all change the work, and those are hard to judge from a description.

The price we agree on covers the scope we described. If something hidden changes the job, such as decay inside a trunk that makes climbing unsafe or an obstacle buried where we planned to grind, we stop and talk with you before doing anything different.

Not always. If we can reach the trees and you tell us which ones you are concerned about, we can often look without you. Many people prefer to walk the property with us so they can ask questions, and that is always welcome.

Cleanup is part of the job, and we agree on the details during the estimate: haul-away of wood and brush, whether you want any firewood left behind, raking and blowing of the work area, and whether stump grinding is included.

Note which trees you are concerned about and anything you have noticed, such as cracks, dead limbs, a new lean or mushrooms at the base. Let us know about gates, septic systems, irrigation, underground utilities or anything else on the property we should plan around.

It depends on the season, the weather and the size of the job. Emergencies always come first. For routine work, we will give you a realistic date when we provide the estimate.

A small or medium tree in an open area may take a few hours. A large tree next to a house, taken down in sections, can take most of a day, and several large trees or difficult access can stretch a job over more than one day. We will give you an estimate of the timing when we quote the job.

No, as long as we have access to the work area and any gates are unlocked. It helps to be reachable by phone in case a question comes up.

Move vehicles, patio furniture, grills and planters away from the work area, keep pets and children inside, unlock gates and let us know about irrigation lines, septic systems, invisible pet fences or anything else buried in the yard. A quick word with your neighbors about the noise and trucks is also appreciated.

We choose equipment and routes to limit the impact on your property, and we talk with you about any risk ahead of time. Soft ground after heavy rain is the biggest concern, since it can rut under heavy equipment, so we may recommend waiting a few days for the ground to firm up.

Light rain does not always stop work, but lightning, high wind and heavy storms do, because they make climbing and rigging unsafe. Saturated ground can also delay jobs that need heavy equipment. If weather affects your job, we will contact you to reschedule.

Chainsaws, chippers and stump grinders are loud while they run. Most of the noise happens in bursts during the working day. If you work from home or have neighbors close by, it helps to let them know the date in advance.

Please stay well outside the work area. Limbs and wood can move in unexpected ways, and crews need a clear zone to work safely. If you need to get to your car or talk with the crew, get their attention from a distance first.

Let us know if you have seen an active nest. Many native birds are protected while nesting, and when a tree is not an immediate hazard, timing the work around the nesting season is sometimes the best option.

Every job starts with a walk of the site to identify hazards and plan how each part of the tree will come down. Crews wear helmets, high-visibility clothing and task-appropriate protective gear, keep a clear work zone, and lower wood on ropes near homes, fences and other trees. We are also fully insured.

Yes. Trees near homes are usually taken down in sections, with pieces lowered by rope rather than dropped, so they never land on the roof, gutters or deck. The approach depends on the tree and the space around it, which we evaluate during the estimate.

It can be. Some customers want the stump ground right away and others prefer to leave it. Let us know during the estimate and we will include it in the price if you want it done.

When there is enough open space, a tree can be felled in one piece in a planned direction. Near homes and other structures, the tree is usually climbed or reached with a lift and taken down from the top in sections. Limbs and pieces of trunk are lowered on ropes instead of dropped, so they land where the crew intends.

Yes. Tell us during the estimate and we can cut the trunk into rounds and leave them where you choose. Leaving the wood usually reduces hauling, which can lower the price.

Branches are typically run through a chipper and the wood is cut and hauled away, unless you want to keep some of it. We settle those details in the estimate so you know exactly what will be left on the property.

If it is near your home, driveway, a play area or anywhere people spend time, it is best not to wait. Dead wood becomes more brittle over time, limbs can drop without warning, and the tree gets harder and less safe to climb as it deteriorates.

It depends on the lines. Main distribution lines along the street are handled by the utility, which may need to de-energize or clear them before other work can happen. The service line running to your house can often be worked around carefully. We will tell you during the estimate whether the utility needs to be involved.

It can. Trees that grew in a group support and shelter each other, so removing one can expose its neighbors to more wind. Roots can also be intertwined. When we recommend removing a tree from a group, we look at how the remaining trees will stand afterward.

In most cases, yes. Lowering wood on ropes, choosing where to set equipment and carrying brush instead of dragging it all help protect beds, shrubs and hardscapes. Let us know about anything especially delicate so we can plan around it.

Removals and hazard work can be done any time of year. For routine pruning, the dormant season in late fall and winter is often a good choice for many species because it is easier to see branch structure and there is less stress on the tree. Dead or dangerous limbs should be handled whenever they are found.

Proper pruning is good for most trees. What hurts them is over-trimming: removing too much of the living canopy at once, leaving stubs, or topping the tree. We aim to take only what is needed for clearance, safety and structure.

Keeping limbs from resting on or rubbing against the roof is the main goal, along with reducing the leaves and debris that collect in gutters. The right distance depends on the tree and how it moves in the wind, so we set clearance on site rather than applying one number to every tree.

Most mature trees do well with attention every few years, plus a check after major storms. Young trees benefit from earlier structural pruning, which is easier on the tree and prevents bigger problems later.

Topping cuts large branches back to stubs to shorten a tree. It leaves big wounds that are prone to decay, and the tree usually responds with dense, weakly attached sprouts that can break more easily than the original limbs. Careful reduction or, when a tree has truly outgrown its space, removal is a better approach.

Yes. Removing dead wood, broken limbs, weak attachments and overextended branches reduces the chance of breakage in high winds. Trimming cannot make any tree storm-proof, but it lowers the risk.

Utilities are responsible for keeping main lines along the street clear. Branches around the service line to your house can often be trimmed with care. If limbs are touching or very close to energized lines, contact your utility before anyone works on the tree.

In many cases property owners can trim branches that extend over their side of the line, but the details depend on the situation, and cuts that seriously harm the tree can cause disputes. Talk with your neighbor first. It often leads to a better result for both properties.

It can. Thinning a dense canopy and raising low limbs lets more sunlight and air reach the lawn and garden. Very shady areas may still need a shade-tolerant grass or ground cover.

Squirrels and other wildlife use limbs that touch or hang just over a roof as a bridge. Trimming those limbs back to provide clearance removes the easy route to your roof, gutters and attic vents.

Typical grinding goes several inches below the surrounding grade, which is enough to mow over and lay sod or seed. If you plan to plant or build in that spot, tell us during the estimate so we can talk about grinding deeper where the site allows.

Grinding produces a pile of chips and soil. Many customers use the chips as mulch or to fill the hole. If you want them hauled away instead, let us know during the estimate.

Grinding removes the stump and the root flare below grade. It does not pull out the full root system, which breaks down over time underground. Large surface roots near the stump can often be ground as well, and we will discuss that before starting.

Stumps get in the way of mowing and landscaping, create trip hazards and can sprout new shoots. As they decay, they can also attract termites, ants and other insects. Grinding lets you reclaim the space for lawn, beds or a new project.

Most trees do not regrow once the stump is ground below grade. A few species can send up sprouts from remaining roots for a season or two. Those shoots can be mowed or cut and usually stop as the roots run out of energy.

It is usually better to plant a few feet away. The ground where the stump was is full of wood chips and decaying roots. If you want to plant in the same spot, remove the chips, replace them with good soil and let us know so we can grind deeper where possible.

A small stump can be done in minutes. A large stump with a wide root flare may take an hour or more. Several stumps are usually completed in a single visit.

Usually. In very tight spots a small section of stump right against a wall or fence post may need to be left or handled by hand. We will point that out before starting.

Because grinding goes below ground, public utility lines should be located through NC 811, the free statewide locating service, before work begins. NC 811 does not mark private lines such as irrigation, landscape lighting, invisible pet fences or lines to a detached building, so tell us about any of those.

Many people use them to fill the hole or spread them as mulch on paths and beds. Fresh grindings can temporarily draw nitrogen from the soil as they break down, so keep them in a thin layer around plants, or mix in topsoil before seeding the area.

It depends on the condition of the trunk, roots and main limbs and on what the tree could hit if it failed. Many trees with a few bad limbs can be kept with targeted trimming, while trees with major decay or a worsening lean near a home may be better removed. A visual assessment on site is the best way to decide.

We walk the property, look closely at the trees you are concerned about and check for visible warning signs such as dead limbs, cracks, cavities, fungal growth, root damage and changes in lean. You get a practical recommendation, which may be to monitor the tree, trim it, or remove it.

No one can guarantee that. A visual assessment identifies visible risk factors and helps you make an informed decision, but trees can fail in severe weather even when they look healthy.

Warning signs include no leaves during the growing season, brittle twigs that snap instead of bending, bark falling away in large sections, large dead limbs, fungus on the trunk or at the base, and a canopy that thins noticeably from year to year. If you are unsure, an on-site assessment can help.

They can be. Mushrooms and shelf-like fungi on or around the base of a tree often indicate decay in the roots or lower trunk, which can weaken the tree without obvious signs above. It is worth having the tree looked at, especially if it is near your home.

Not necessarily. Many trees grow with a gradual lean and stay stable for decades. A lean that appears suddenly or gets worse, especially with cracked or raised soil on the opposite side of the trunk, is a warning sign and should be looked at right away.

Pines naturally shed some older inner needles each fall, which is normal. Browning of the whole crown or from the top down is more serious and can come from drought stress, root damage or bark beetles. Small pitch tubes or holes in the bark are a sign of beetles. A pine that has turned brown throughout is usually dead and should be removed if it is near anything it could hit.

Some trees, like sycamores and river birches, shed bark naturally. On most other trees, large areas of missing or loose bark, especially with bare wood underneath, can signal serious damage or decline.

Yes, and the damage often shows up years later. Cutting roots for footings or trenches, compacting soil with heavy equipment and adding or removing soil over the root zone can all cause a tree to decline. If you are planning a project near a large tree, think about the roots before work begins.

Trees with decay, dead tops or cracked trunks, trees whose roots were damaged, and tall trees newly exposed at the edge of a cleared lot are common candidates. Some species are also prone to breakage. Bradford pears, for example, have a branch structure that often splits as they mature.

Roots commonly lift sidewalks, patios and driveways as they grow. Damage to foundations is less common but can happen, especially with large trees planted close to the house. If roots are causing problems, we can talk through options, from removing the tree to leaving it alone.

Sometimes. Some trees show only a strip of damaged bark and recover. Others are badly damaged internally or decline over the following months. Watch the tree for dieback and have it assessed if it stands near your home.

Yes. Emergency tree service is available around the clock for situations like a tree on a house, a tree blocking the only way in or out, or a limb hanging over a walkway or driveway. Call (919) 290-3020. If power lines are involved, contact your utility first and keep everyone well away.

Get everyone out of the affected area and stay away from any downed lines. If there are injuries, fire or electrical hazards, call 911 and your utility. Then call us at (919) 290-3020. It is also a good idea to photograph the damage and contact your insurance company.

Coverage depends on your policy and on what the tree damaged. Many policies treat a tree that hits a covered structure differently from a tree that falls in an open yard. Check with your insurance company; we can provide documentation of the work we perform.

Emergency service deals with the immediate hazard, such as getting a tree off a roof or opening a blocked driveway. Storm cleanup is the follow-up work: cutting up and hauling away fallen wood, removing hanging limbs and cleaning up debris across the property.

A tree or large limb on a house, garage or vehicle, a tree blocking the only way in or out of a property, a limb hanging over a walkway or driveway, or a tree that has suddenly started leaning toward a structure. If you are unsure, call (919) 290-3020 and describe what you see.

Stay far away and keep others away. Treat every downed or contacted line as live, even if it is not sparking. Call your electric utility, and call 911 if there is fire, injury or immediate danger. Tree work around the line can happen once the utility has made it safe.

It often depends on the circumstances, such as whether a healthy tree came down in a storm or a tree that was visibly dead or damaged failed. Insurance usually plays a big role. Take photos, contact your insurance company and talk with your neighbor. We can remove the tree once everyone has agreed on how to proceed.

Be very cautious. Fallen trees often have trunks and limbs under heavy tension or compression that can spring free when cut. Anything touching a house, a vehicle, other trees or power lines should be left to professionals.

Have trees near your home checked before summer. Removing dead limbs, reducing heavy branches over the roof and dealing with trees that are already declining or leaning is far easier and less expensive before a storm than after one.

We focus on smaller properties, typically up to about one acre. That covers most homesites, yard expansions, access paths and small commercial parcels. Larger forestry-scale clearing is outside what we offer.

Stumps can be ground as part of a clearing job when the next phase of the project calls for it. We will talk through what you are preparing the land for and price the job accordingly.

We handle rough grading and minor leveling, usually after clearing, to prepare ground for the next step of a project. We do not provide engineered grading plans or drainage design, and we evaluate each job individually to confirm it fits our scope.

Minor leveling can improve how water moves across a small area, but we do not guarantee drainage results. Significant water problems may need a drainage contractor or engineer, and we will tell you if a job looks like it needs that kind of expertise.

Tree removal focuses on specific trees. Lot clearing opens up an area, taking out trees along with brush, saplings and overgrowth so the ground can be used for a yard, homesite or project.

Yes. Selective clearing is one of the most common requests. We walk the area with you, mark the trees you want to keep and remove the brush, vines and unwanted trees around them.

Sometimes. In North Carolina, land-disturbing activity of more than one acre generally requires an approved erosion and sediment control plan, and towns and counties may have their own rules for smaller areas, buffers and development sites. Check with your local planning or zoning office before clearing.

Yes, on sites up to about one acre. If you are working with a builder, share their site plan so we clear the right areas and leave the trees they want protected.

Often not on a typical residential lot, but rules vary by town and by situation. Some municipalities regulate tree removal in required buffers, on development sites or on certain types of property, and many HOAs have their own approval process. Check with your town and HOA before work begins; we are happy to talk through what we see on site.

Many HOAs require approval before trees are removed, especially in front yards or along common areas. Check your covenants or ask your management company, and allow time for the approval process before scheduling work.

A tree whose trunk sits on the line is often treated as shared by both owners, which means both should agree before it is removed. Talk with your neighbor first. We are glad to explain what we see to both of you.

Trees in the public right-of-way are often the responsibility of the town, city or NCDOT, depending on the road. Before arranging work on a street tree, check with your local public works or urban forestry office.

Be careful. Parts of the Triangle fall under riparian buffer rules, such as those for the Neuse River and Jordan Lake watersheds, which limit cutting and clearing near streams and other waters. Check with your town, county or the state before removing vegetation near a creek.

Yes. We handle tree work for homeowners as well as business owners and property managers. Commercial jobs often need scheduling around business hours, parking areas and foot traffic, and we plan for that during the estimate.

We plan commercial jobs around access, parking areas and customer traffic, and discuss timing during the estimate. Let us know about any restrictions your property has.

Yes. We can walk a property with a manager, prioritize work, and provide estimates for approval. Tell us who needs to receive the estimate and who should be on site.

Yes. We can visit each property, organize the work by priority and provide estimates in whatever format your approval process needs.

We set up a clear work zone separated from foot and vehicle traffic, adjust the approach to the site and, when needed, schedule work during quieter hours or close part of a parking area for a short time.

We serve communities throughout the Triangle and surrounding areas, including Apex, Cary, Raleigh, Durham, Chapel Hill, Pittsboro and Holly Springs, as well as Angier, Clayton, Fuquay-Varina, Knightdale, Morrisville, Wake Forest, Willow Spring, Youngsville and Zebulon. If you are just outside those towns, call and ask.

Possibly. If you are close to one of the communities we serve, call (919) 290-3020 and ask. We will tell you honestly whether your property is within our range.

Yes. We work on small in-town lots, suburban neighborhoods and larger rural properties with long driveways and wooded acreage. Let us know about access conditions when you request an estimate.

Yes. e Tree Service is fully insured. You are welcome to ask for proof of coverage before work begins, and property managers can request it for their records.